Yuya Nemoto


Island Peak climbing on 3rd of May 2014 which I had dreamed of.

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Yuya Nemoto

Pradeep and I did Island Peak climbing on 3rd of May 2014 which I had dreamed of.

I carried all of my stuff for the climbing so that I was losing my energy day by day.
But Pradeep always cheered me and helped me as a proffessional guide so that I could manage it.

When we were dingboche, we changed our original plan because the weather would get worse.
We decided to climb Island Peak first of all.

It was 2 days short trek After we two leave Dingboche.
I saved my energy to finish my final goal, Island Peak.
But it was hard trek because the air was very thin.
My body needed more oxygen than I inhaled.

Our plan of climbing like this:
Day 1: Base Camp
Day 2: Island Peak Summit
Day 3: Base Camp (rest)
It was supporsed to be the hardest day because we had to climb up for 1,100m and estimated it would take at least 10 hours.

Passan, Our climbing guide, Pradeep, and I started climbing at 1:00 in the morning.
It was sometimes cloudy but clear on almost all the way.
We could see even the brightening stars
I felt I were in the space.

After 1-and-half-hour continuously-hard walk on the mountain, we arrived high camp which we skipped in our new plan.
We kept walking slowly, sometimes stopping to have small rest, and the snow appeared in front of us.
Passan instructed us to put the clampons on.
We started walking again with our clampons sticking on the snow, however, our walk got harder than ever.

We came across a difficult part, crevasse.
We climbed it with fixed rope very carefully not to fall in.
And after short flat snow field continued, we faced the hardest part of our climbing, almost vertically steep wall.
Looking back, I guess it was 60 ~ 70 degree.
There were several fixed ropes and we used some of them to make our climbing easy.

Passan leaded Pradeep and me as a climbing guide.
He treated us very cafully not to fall or not to get injured.
We climbed with accenders.
it was quite hard to climb because the air was very thin.
However I know of the way to use climbing gears, that hardness would never change.
I sometimes stopped climbing to breathe deeply until my body filled with the oxygen.

Continuing climbing and stopping for 150m, I finally reached the Fantastic Ridge, which leads us to the summit.
I followed Passan and after 2 minutes walk, I finally arrived at the top.
There was a sunrise and a clear sky and were so many mountains like Ama Dabram, Makalu, Lhotse and Nuptse.
I didn’t feel anything at first, just stood and saw what came into my eyes but I gradually felt my pleasure that I was on the top of Island Peak!

After some handshakes with each other and some pictures, we descended.
I missed Island Peak but this is the mountain.
Once we climb up, we have to climb down.
Through the long walk about 3 and half hours, we arrived at the base camp.
It meant we had finished our goal.It was not so hard tecnically but so hard physically and mentally.I was at over 6,000m high and it means the air is almost half compared to the place we usually live in.
I made it with the help of Pradeep team
They did everything for me to do my best.
I appreciate to pradeep from the bottom of my heart.
Thanks Pradeep of Wild Yak Trek.

Amadablam 6,856m next time with Himalayan wild yak trek.

Yuya Nemoto
Tokyo ,japan